Advice On Food Agressive Sheltie
Question:
This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room. no different with dogs than cats. In this case sometimes HYPOthyroidism in dogs causes aggressive behavior. Time for a basic blood panel with thyroid check. Take in some urine too. Do the whole shebang.
Good idea budlady, thanks. We’re taking her to the vet Thursday and will ask to have that checked out. That actually makes alot of sense to me and would explain alot of things. …..Many dogs do not like to be bugged while they’re eating. I even have a cat like this, who prefers not to eat in the same room with other cats. If there’s nowhere else to lock her up to eat, put her in the bathroom so she can eat in peace.
Yup, she eats by herself…the problem now is that she’s displaying the behaviour whether there’s food involved or not. My cat George is the same way, you can’t mess with him while he’s eating
Dee
Response:
HOWEDY Dee, ALL the information you need is in your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual at http://www.doggydoright.com Just ask The Puppy Wizard if you need any additional FREE heelp.
Thanks Puppy Wizard, I’ll go check it out. Dee
Response:
HOWEDY nicole h, Kennel the dog for all foods and treats.
Hi Nicole. I didn’t actually see your original post, and I’m not actually sure that you were replying to me this is all such a mess! Anyway, this wouldn’t work for us, we don’t use a kennel/crate at all and I just don’t like the idea of it. Thanks though! Dee
Response:
Heh, well ok I can’t really reply to this in sequence. No, Michelle isn’t trained well. As I said, she was abandoned and already five years old when we took her in. She is not punished, EVER, for anything that she does. We don’t yell at her or raise a hand to her for any reason, and of course this is a tiny problem in the overall scheme of things and she’s in no danger of "the needle." The needle?? Where did you get that? The cats are former strays and ferals who were taken in *because* they were ill, we didn’t make them that way, but thanks for your support. I’ve seen you give some good responses to people from time to time, so if you have anything that can help me out, I’d appreciate it. Thanks. Dee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – HOWEDY dee, I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour, The Puppy Wizard will be the first to tell you it woudn’t matter if you did, cause you’d be DEAD WRONG anyHOWE. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness. Your kats have The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME like professor SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM ‘NO!’ into ITS face for 5 seconds and lock IT in a box for
Response:
HOWEDY Dee, ALL the information you need is in your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual at http://www.doggydoright.com Just ask The Puppy Wizard if you need any additional FREE heelp. The Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ )
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Heh, well ok I can’t really reply to this in sequence. No, Michelle isn’t trained well. As I said, she was abandoned and already five years old when we took her in. She is not punished, EVER, for anything that she does. We don’t yell at her or raise a hand to her for any reason, and of course this is a tiny problem in the overall scheme of things and she’s in no danger of "the needle." The needle?? Where did you get that? The cats are former strays and ferals who were taken in *because* they were ill, we didn’t make them that way, but thanks for your support. I’ve seen you give some good responses to people from time to time, so if you have anything that can help me out, I’d appreciate it. Thanks. Dee HOWEDY dee,
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour, The Puppy Wizard will be the first to tell you it woudn’t matter if you did, cause you’d be DEAD WRONG anyHOWE. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness. Your kats have The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME like professor SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM ‘NO!’ into ITS face for 5 seconds and lock IT in a box for
Response:
I have never heard of the thyroid being a problem w/aggression… always good to know! My bloodhound, a rescue, had food aggression (even growled at the kids if they just walked by, they know better than to touch or get close, me on the other hand, will test and push the dog to find out LOL) Thx for the info Nic — 3 of every 10 Americans Know Someone With Lupus Help find the cure. www.lupus.org
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room. no different with dogs than cats. In this case sometimes HYPOthyroidism in dogs causes aggressive behavior. Time for a basic blood panel with thyroid check. Take in some urine too. Do the whole shebang. …..Many dogs do not like to be bugged while they’re eating. I even have a cat like this, who prefers not to eat in the same room with other cats. If there’s nowhere else to lock her up to eat, put her in the bathroom so she can eat in peace. buglady take out the dog before replying
Response:
This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room.
no different with dogs than cats. In this case sometimes HYPOthyroidism in dogs causes aggressive behavior. Time for a basic blood panel with thyroid check. Take in some urine too. Do the whole shebang. …..Many dogs do not like to be bugged while they’re eating. I even have a cat like this, who prefers not to eat in the same room with other cats. If there’s nowhere else to lock her up to eat, put her in the bathroom so she can eat in peace. buglady take out the dog before replying
Response:
HOWEDY nicole h,
Kennel the dog for all foods and treats.
That WAS the problem. But after dee punished and scolded the dog she made IT MOORE aggressive so the dog is ALWAYS ready to attack the kats. Locking IT in a box for feeding will make IT MOORE aggressive. Problem solved.
Yeah… if you’re half witted simpleton or a dog abuser or a prescription drug addled mental case like most of HOWER regular posters here abHOWETS. It worked for us and has for many.
That so? You mean, for folks who don’t have the intellect to HOWEtwit the cunnin of the domestic puppy dog… like yourself: I recently rescued a bloodhound and he does not respond to no. Where’s the best place to buy an e collar? Does anyone have training tips for bloodhounds? We have 2 other dogs who behave. This dog is 1 yo and still such a puppy HELP Nicole This is a bloodhound. He is nothing like my other dogs. My other dogs *are* obedient. I know he’ll never be trained to the point that he can be taken outside off leash. Bloodhounds don’t work that way. Our old Redbone didn’t either! He’s just like nothing I’ve ever had. He doesn’t like treats (tried a ton of ‘em). There’s no bribing the dog. His size makes him even more difficult. Nicole I would not leave any food down.
That so? And all food, treats would be in the kennel.
Good for you. You got any TRAINING ADVICE? Nicole
I take my Effexor in the morning since it’s supposed to be "stimulating". I take the XR so it’s ok. PROVIGIL is a unique wake-promoting agent for the treatment of excessive daytime sleepiness (commonly called "EDS") associated with narcolepsy. PROVIGIL has been proven to help people with narcolepsy stay awake. PROVIGIL improves daytime wakefulness, allowing people with narcolepsy to participate in daily activities. www.provigil.com In the past, I’ve used Adderall for the fatigue. It helped significantly. After having to change drs, I could not find a dr to RX it yet. Most want to try to get me to sleep since it’s better than faking energy. It’s 5am right now and I’ve slept for about an hour. I’ve tried many many drugs that are supposed to help me sleep but most stop working after 1 week to 1 month. Nicole I’m still taking the Adderall. The script is for 10mg tid but I’m taking 10mg bid. I’ve been forgetting to take it first thing in the morning. So far, so good. I don’t have as much energy as I would like but it’s so much better than before. I’m also sleeping better. I’m tired at night versus my usual evening second wind. This week, I’m going to concentrate on taking the 3 pills a day and see how it works. Phentermine worked well for me too. But the Adderall is dosed more frequently so the energy lasts. Nicole View: Complete Thread (12 articles) Original Format Newsgroups: alt.med.fibromyalgia I took Zanaflex 4mgs three to four times a day. At first, it made me very sleepy but I didn’t find much muscle relaxation. After a while, the sedation part stopped and I changed to Flexeril. Nicole
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour, never having had one before. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats …and was abandoned with them. We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her. This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication. I think this is absolutely wrong (even though I worry about my cats!). I’ve fallen in love with the dog too and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour. Thanks! Dee
Response:
Kennel the dog for all foods and treats. Problem solved. It worked for us and has for many. I would not leave any food down. And all food, treats would be in the kennel. Nicole — 3 of every 10 Americans Know Someone With Lupus Help find the cure. www.lupus.org
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour, never having had one before. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats …and was abandoned with them. We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her. This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication. I think this is absolutely wrong (even though I worry about my cats!). I’ve fallen in love with the dog too and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour. Thanks! Dee
Response:
HOWEDY dee,
I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour,
The Puppy Wizard sez we got LOTS of heelpful posters here who can give you all the INFORMATION you NEED to train your dog not to hurt or get hurt by your kats. never having had one before.
Most of HOWER dog lovers have had plenty of experience with dogs and kats… I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness.
Yeah. That’s cause you’re an abuser, dee. Same reason HOWE COME your dog is attackin the kats, cause you’ve intimated and punished scolded and confronted her to protect your kats. You’ve aggrevated the situation, dee. <snip I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour.
Perhaps diddler can offer some advice for safe handling and trainin. Thanks!
Your welcome. There’ll probably be LOTS of heelpful posters with brilliant stratgeies. You got a crate, dee? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dee Actually, I borrowed the vets office kitten once for a couple days for school education on pet care and safe handling as well as responsible pet ownership. I kept the kitten over night in a crate within a crate and yet my dog (yes, Angelic Danny, as well as Taya and Toby tore that kittne to threads from between the crate bars. (apparently he stuck his paws through the crate to bat at the dogs. I was out doing yard work and rushed in to find the little kittens pieces and parts being torn through by ALL the dogs. I called my girl friend to come get my dogs. I screamed displeasure, and stalked out with the kitten. Danny, et al spent 3 days in a kennel until I finally felt like I could interact with them without doing bodily harm. All three dogs were never touched, but knew they had done something so unspeakable that I wouldn’t associate with them and they got banished. To this day, Taya (mom and Dad’s dog) and Danny will not look at a cat. When confronted with one, Danny wees himself and cowers hiding behind me for help. I’m not saying this would work this way with all dogs, But mom and dad now have a house cat, and she has never been harmed by any of the dogs. Danny is there all the time, unsupervised, and has no interest in harming the cat. DIDDY ON CATS (shoot, don’t trap) Xenia Ohio Feb 15 2002 Newsgroups: alt.animals.furtrapping …. If I can get him away from the Olympics, I’ll have him answer that. He doesn’t know how to change the identity on the computer, so if "I" answer this post… it’s really Jeff. And no…. we went to watch. He sold nothing. btw.. are these "CATS" feral domestic cats? (sorry not familiar with Oklahoma) (I just shoot the DSH cats. Jeff caught a couple cats last summer while nuisance trapping an orchard, but it wasn’t intentional) — diddy BUT IF YOU DO TRAP, DO IT RIGHT (The cat went nuts….they weren’t supposed to go ape, to get themselves in this situation). You know I’m a cat abuser because I let my cat out. Alison Well, it totally depends upon where you live, as to whether or not doing so is in the best interest of your animal. Abuser isn’t a term I would use, and I am a "cat group" regular. Here it would be abuse. If you like your cat you keep it home. I run a state authorized and monitored nuisance animal trapline. This morning there was a cat in a snare. Ordinarily, an animal caught in a snare can be released unharmed. One of the animals I am targeting is coyotes (and the complaint was that coyotes were killing area cats) Duh.. If your cats are becoming lunch for wild animals, to me .. It makes sense to keep your cats in where they can’t become lunch.. whatever. Regarding this cat in the snare. It went nuts. It leaped, and tangled itself, and most certainly strangulated it’s intestines. It had the snare pulled tight down to the diameter of a dime (just large enough to encircle the spine) around the waist area. This cats snarled, and attacked. Trying to extricate this cat was exceedingly difficult, not to mention dangerous. Because I feared damage to the intestines and death of the gut, I imagined this cat was not likely to survive. It would have been much simpler to dispatch the unfortunate cat and take out the dead body. Instead, this cat wore a collar. it deserved a chance, and the owner deserved closure. (no id on the collar) . It escaped, just as I released it and it couldn’t be taken to the vet for examination. I will probably never know if this particular cat survives the experience or not. People in the area were aware that trapping was being done and apparently still let their cats run free, both endangered by the traps and by the coyotes being targeted that are causing a problem with their cat population. Had that cat not been wearing a collar, I would not have tried to release this hostile cat. Releasing it may not have been a kindness, but then… cats weren’t supposed to be attracted to this type of trap, in this position, and then they weren’t supposed to go ape, to get themselves in this situation. If you like your pet, you keep them home. Two nights ago, Reka started acting frantic about 11pm. I let her out. It’s coyote breeding season, and she is fascinated by them. I assumed she wanted to go out and listen to them howling. I brought her in, and she spent the night franticly and desperately demanding to go out. After about 4am, I finally put her in the barn, locked securely in a horse stall for the night. She came in by morning, and had a normal active, playful day. Last night, at 11pm, She franticly DEMANDED to go out. I let her out, and brought her in. At midnight, she DEMANDED to be let out. I let her out, but I went out to the barn and got a crate, and decided she could spend the rest of the night in the crate. We were NOT going to do a repeat of the previous night AGAIN. At 3am, she whined so loudly, I then decided not to allow her to set a precedence of this type of behavior. So I took her crate out to the heated gun shop and decided to let her act out her bad behavior in peace, and send a message that her obnoxious behavior was not going to be tolerated. This morning at 6am, I went out, and she had vomited (normal looking dog food) and defecated in her crate (not normal for Reka, but then, She normally didn’t sleep in a crate, NEVER gets corrected (she never does anything to GET corrected for) and was probably nerves from the outside experience, plus reprimand and solitary confinement.) I let her in the house while I cleaned the cage. Hoping I had made my point. She acted healthy and normal, and playful and chipper. But then I noticed a spot of blood on the bathroom linoleum and in the bathtub. I was the last to take a bath, so I knew REKA was the last in the tub. That blood didnt come from me, so it HAD to come from Reka. Thinking about her nearing the end of her heat cycle, I still didnt think a lot about it. I thought her obnoxious behavior the past couple nights WAS her heat cycle.. and corresponding coyote breeding season. Then while feeding her breakfast, I saw the whole story. She had blood (fresh) streaming from her RECTUM. UhOh. I had her at the vets office this morning before he opened. He just said her intestines were all bunched up with huge air pockets. Was there any chance that she ate strings of carpets? I said, last Thursday we took a plastic tarp out of the yard that we had over the grill to protect it from the weather because she was chewing it. That would explain EVERYTHING. The strings are binding and bunching up her intestines, cutting her internally and tying her intestines in knots as it works its way through. Reka is in a very critical situation. She is going to require extensive and expensive surgery that I cant afford. I will manage. Even with the surgery, her condition will be critical for awhile. Scary thoughts. I would never have treated her the way I did last night, if I had even a clue that she was sick. I feel so badly. — diddy Newsgroups: alt.animals.furtrapping Hey Tobias! I just sent some of my husband’s trap line catches to http://www.wild-about-trapping.com I didn’t get all his catch so far this year. In fact, I didn’t get most. So far he’s had 14 beaver (largest ohio beaver weighing in at 75 pounds, smallest at 35 pounds, and the average about 45 pounds), 10 coyotes, 4 red fox, 3 muskrats, 38 raccoon, 1 mink. Fur Prices are WAY down, and he sold those wonderful beaver for $8 apeice from the raw fur buyer. coyotes pay $3 a piece for raw furs. Raccoons $.50 a piece. Hardly worth doing, but he’s got to do SOMETHING or sitting around the house with me would drive him stir crazy. <grin I love seeing what he brings home, and even helping him (or even actually running) his trap line with/for him. Now when
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Response:
HOWEDY dee,
I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour,
So you’re askin folks who know even less, as they’ve demonstrated here for years? never having had one before.
You’ve been readin HOWER forums for years. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness.
Cause you punish and scold them. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats …
And you punish and scolded her and made her MOORE aggressive fearful mistrusting and jealHOWES of them. and was abandoned with them.
Sob story, eh? We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her.
So you punished her. This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room.
Yeah. Well your MISTAKE was you didn’t HURT her ENOUGH. Repeated weak corrections only ANNOY the dog. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication.
Yeah. That’s idiocy. I think this is absolutely wrong (even though I worry about my cats!).
Right. That’s HOWE COME you scold the dog for grHOWEling at them and that’s HOWE COME she became MOORE aggressive. I’ve fallen in love with the dog too
Well then, you won’t have any problem HURTIN her as much as necessary to save her and protect your kats. and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated.
RIGHT. Then you’ll HURT HER as NECESSARY. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make
The Puppy Wizard suggests you follow the instructions from the SF GSD Rescue and professor scruff shake. regarding modifying her behaviour.
You’ll need to do things you’d RATHER NOT, but it’s what’s BEST for your dog, according to the folks who love and work with dogs every day. Thanks!
Your welcome! Dee
Our pal lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn stutters: "You Lying Sack Of Dung.When Have I Ever Said Anything About Using A Prong Collar, Or Any Collar Correction At All, To Make Dogs Friendly To House Cats? lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs: ‘This Article Is Something We’ve Put Together For SF GSD Rescue’ How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.
Okay – this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K. "Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don’t forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in this situation. Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or whatever other reward system was being used."
Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don’t forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is why you have the dog muzzled). If the dog makes an aggressive move towards the cat, it must be corrected strongly with both your voice and the collar. This is important – the correction must be physically very strong – not a nag. (PS: not many dogs need to be corrected at all). How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.
Okay – this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K. We rely on a dog’s normal pack instinct and instinct to possess. The goal is to strengthen those responses to the cat, to the point where they outweigh prey drive behavior. It nearly always works, and you won’t lose a cat or hurt one of your dogs in the process. The dogs aren’t coerced into accepting the cats, but given the opportunity to recognize individuals as part of their environment, rather than prey, by taking advantage of natural pack and possessive behaviors. When someone asks me if one of our dogs likes cats, my first thought is, "yes, for breakfast, lunch and dinner and a midnight snack". Even dogs who have lived in a home with cats are unpredictable in a new home setting for several reasons: cats all react differently to dogs, a dog may have felt a sense of possession of a specific cat (or any other pet) in its previous home, or the dog may be taking its cue from an alpha (who "possesses" the cat). A dog’s ability to live with a specific cat does not mean that it is "good" with all cats. It may mean that the dog has no prey drive, but it could also mean that the dog "possessed" a specific cat, or lived where an alpha possessed a specific cat(s). A dog can live with cat(s) while still maintaining prey drive around all other cats; this is because the dog considers the cat a possession or a packmate, not prey. It doesn’t lump all cats into one basket and treat them all alike. Pack hassling over position can even spill over into fights over (or attacks upon) the "possession" (i.e. take-away). There’s some basic principles in order for a dog and cat (or bunny or bird or whatever) to be able to live together: 1) There are variances by breed that must be considered. A German Shepherd Dog’s instinct to possess overrides its prey drive. But this is not true for some other breeds such as terriers, sighthounds and Ridgebacks. There are limits to what can be achieved, but it should work with your Bichon-mix. 2) A dog will accept a cat (or other animal) either as a possession or a pack mate if opportunity for interaction is given where the dog cannot see the cat as prey. 3) The dog must accept its owner as "alpha" and take its cue on how to treat the cat(s) from the owner. The owner, however, should not be perceived as "possessing" the cat. The plan that follows will not to stop the dog from chasing all cats. It works to establish a sense of "pack" and possession of the cat in the dog’s mind The steps below allow the dog and cat to interact in a controlled manner in order to establish a sense of possession in the dog while keeping the cat safe while this process is underway. You don’t want to endanger your boyfriend’s cats in any way in this process. Steps: All these steps are important. It’s easier it’s to introduce a dog to a cat who has never been chased by a dog because the cat will interact with the dog sooner, but this works for existing situations once the cat realizes it’s safe. Some cats are easier to work with than others. It is a fine line to tread because you do not want the dog to believe that its owner is possessing the cat – the dog must feel that he or she possesses the cat. Otherwise, the dog can see the cat as something to try to steal away from its owner, especially if there is any question of the owner being the pack "alpha". During the learning process, the dog must never be allowed to chase the cat(s) or to play games that put it in prey drive while the cat is present. If this isn’t done, the process will not work. Work with one dog at a time if possible. 1) The owner of the dog must become the alpha dog in the household. The dog has to realize that it is not alpha and must take its cues from the human pack members as to who it accepts. The owner needs to have established a level of control. 2) When the dog is introduced to the household, the cats are shut away in another room. This is also true if you are introducing a cat into a household with dogs. There are no exceptions at all. Especially don’t carry a cat in your arms if a dog is loose. This can be dangerous for cat, dog and human. A child should never ever carry a cat or small animal in its arms around a loose dog. 3) When the cats are allowed out freely to roam without human supervision, the dog must be outside or where it cannot see the cat. It cannot be inside in a crate where it can see and/or bark or lunge at the cat without correction. This is vital and the entire process will not work if this isn’t done properly. 4) Shut the dog in its crate and allow the cat(s) out hopefully to walk past the dog crate. If the dog barks or lunges within the crate, the dog is verbally corrected. Make sure that the cats are in another room behind a closed door before letting the dog have its time out of the crate. I’m not talking about keeping the dog in the crate all the time, it’s more keeping the cats in another room most of the time. The dog is crated while the cats are out, and then let out of the crate for most of the time. This may take several days or weeks to accomplish. It depends on how quickly the cat comes around to the dog’s crate area (which should be with the family). 5) Do not comfort, pet or fuss over the cats where the dog can see it from his crate. Especially don’t do this after the dog has barked or lunged at the cat. Correct only the dog. This is because you do not want the dog to see the cat as your possession. 6) Accustom the dog to a muzzle while it is hanging out in its crate. It will be muzzled when it goes to the vet or is groomed (even if we don’t see it, it happens), so this way the dog is used to a muzzle. Leave it on for 10 – 15 minutes at a time if it isn’t hot. If it’s hot, the dog must not be muzzled because it can’t pant. The muzzle is only a temporary tool. But the muzzle must be used for the cat’s sake. 7) After 10-14 days where the dog does not bark or lunge at the cat and the cat is comfortable walking around the crate, it’s … read more »
Response:
HOWEDY dee,
I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour,
The Puppy Wizard sez you’re in EXXXCELLENT company! never having had one before.
The Puppy Wizard has over forty years specializing in temperament and behavior problems and protection trainin in mostly giant breed working / family dogs. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness.
Your kats are deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME cause you punish and scold them. That’s HOWE COME your dog is HOWETA CONTROL. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats … and was abandoned with them. We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her.
That’s cause you correct her… This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room.
That’s the result of punishment. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication. I think this is absolutely wrong
INDEEDY. Perhaps the money would be better spent on a shock collar so you can train IT. (even though I worry about my cats!).
All the MOORE reason to HURT the dog. I’ve fallen in love with the dog too
INDEEDY. So you came here to ask HOWER dog lovers for advice. and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated.
She could murder your kats or get an eye put HOWET. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour.
You been takin your anti psychotic medications, dee? Try takin them with a little sumpthin to eat and wait an HOWER for them to kick in before interactin with folks… Thanks!
Your welcome. Dee
HOWEDY dee,
That does sound scary. I was just wondering about h0p yesterday. Thanks for thinking of him AG. He recovered quickly and is doing really well right now.
Your kat is having seizures from STRESS. He’s so lovey dovey and excited that he just bit a hole in my arm and he hardly has any teeth left!
Yeah. That’s ‘lovey dovey’ for ya… No..no one is paying any attention to the kids.
Of curse not! Your animals are DYIN from stress related DIS-EASES. There is another mail list that I imagine most everyone is chatting on
diddler got a new private list for HOWER animal lovers. until the kids move on..and if they don’t…no big.
Right. You can go hang HOWET with diddler and her pals… I don’t get the thrill of trolling or flooding.
Right. You hide from the INFORMATION that SCARES YOU. Maybe you need to be 10 to appreciate it
INDEED. A ten year old child would not fear not hurting and intimidating animals. AAh, great, could you mail me and tell me what newsgroup to go to?
INDEEDY. Glad you had a mostly good vacation.
Yeah. The kat didn’t like returning to his source of anxiety. Thanks, I love the ocean
LikeWIZE. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dee Actually, I borrowed the vets office kitten once for a couple days for school education on pet care and safe handling as well as responsible pet ownership. I kept the kitten over night in a crate within a crate and yet my dog (yes, Angelic Danny, as well as Taya and Toby tore that kittne to threads from between the crate bars. (apparently he stuck his paws through the crate to bat at the dogs. I was out doing yard work and rushed in to find the little kittens pieces and parts being torn through by ALL the dogs. I called my girl friend to come get my dogs. I screamed displeasure, and stalked out with the kitten. Danny, et al spent 3 days in a kennel until I finally felt like I could interact with them without doing bodily harm. All three dogs were never touched, but knew they had done something so unspeakable that I wouldn’t associate with them and they got banished. To this day, Taya (mom and Dad’s dog) and Danny will not look at a cat. When confronted with one, Danny wees himself and cowers hiding behind me for help. I’m not saying this would work this way with all dogs, But mom and dad now have a house cat, and she has never been harmed by any of the dogs. Danny is there all the time, unsupervised, and has no interest in harming the cat. DIDDY ON CATS (shoot, don’t trap) Xenia Ohio Feb 15 2002 Newsgroups: alt.animals.furtrapping …. If I can get him away from the Olympics, I’ll have him answer that. He doesn’t know how to change the identity on the computer, so if "I" answer this post… it’s really Jeff. And no…. we went to watch. He sold nothing. btw.. are these "CATS" feral domestic cats? (sorry not familiar with Oklahoma) (I just shoot the DSH cats. Jeff caught a couple cats last summer while nuisance trapping an orchard, but it wasn’t intentional) — diddy BUT IF YOU DO TRAP, DO IT RIGHT (The cat went nuts….they weren’t supposed to go ape, to get themselves in this situation). You know I’m a cat abuser because I let my cat out. Alison Well, it totally depends upon where you live, as to whether or not doing so is in the best interest of your animal. Abuser isn’t a term I would use, and I am a "cat group" regular. Here it would be abuse. If you like your cat you keep it home. I run a state authorized and monitored nuisance animal trapline. This morning there was a cat in a snare. Ordinarily, an animal caught in a snare can be released unharmed. One of the animals I am targeting is coyotes (and the complaint was that coyotes were killing area cats) Duh.. If your cats are becoming lunch for wild animals, to me .. It makes sense to keep your cats in where they can’t become lunch.. whatever. Regarding this cat in the snare. It went nuts. It leaped, and tangled itself, and most certainly strangulated it’s intestines. It had the snare pulled tight down to the diameter of a dime (just large enough to encircle the spine) around the waist area. This cats snarled, and attacked. Trying to extricate this cat was exceedingly difficult, not to mention dangerous. Because I feared damage to the intestines and death of the gut, I imagined this cat was not likely to survive. It would have been much simpler to dispatch the unfortunate cat and take out the dead body. Instead, this cat wore a collar. it deserved a chance, and the owner deserved closure. (no id on the collar) . It escaped, just as I released it and it couldn’t be taken to the vet for examination. I will probably never know if this particular cat survives the experience or not. People in the area were aware that trapping was being done and apparently still let their cats run free, both endangered by the traps and by the coyotes being targeted that are causing a problem with their cat population. Had that cat not been wearing a collar, I would not have tried to release this hostile cat. Releasing it may not have been a kindness, but then… cats weren’t supposed to be attracted to this type of trap, in this position, and then they weren’t supposed to go ape, to get themselves in this situation. If you like your pet, you keep them home. Two nights ago, Reka started acting frantic about 11pm. I let her out. It’s coyote breeding season, and she is fascinated by them. I assumed she wanted to go out and listen to them howling. I brought her in, and she spent the night franticly and desperately demanding to go out. After about 4am, I finally put her in the barn, locked securely in a horse stall for the night. She came in by morning, and had a normal active, playful day. Last night, at 11pm, She franticly DEMANDED to go out. I let her out, and brought her in. At midnight, she DEMANDED to be let out. I let her out, but I went out to the barn and got a crate, and decided she could spend the rest of the night in the crate. We were NOT going to do a repeat of the previous night AGAIN. At 3am, she whined so loudly, I then decided not to allow her to set a precedence of this type of behavior. So I took her crate out to the heated gun shop and decided to let her act out her bad behavior in peace, and send a message that her obnoxious behavior was not going to be tolerated. This morning at 6am, I went out, and she had vomited (normal looking dog food) and defecated in her crate (not normal for Reka, but then, She normally didn’t sleep in a crate, NEVER gets corrected (she never does anything to GET corrected for) and was probably nerves from the outside experience, plus reprimand and solitary confinement.) I let her in the house while I cleaned the cage. Hoping I had made my point. She acted healthy and normal, and playful and chipper. But then I noticed a spot of blood on the bathroom
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Response:
HOWEDY dee,
I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour,
The Puppy Wizard will be the first to tell you it woudn’t matter if you did, cause you’d be DEAD WRONG anyHOWE. never having had one before.
Well, there’s LOTS of heelpful folks to ask here abHOWETS. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness.
Your kats have The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME like professor SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM ‘NO!’ into ITS face for 5 seconds and lock IT in a box for ten minutes of reflection" dermer, associate professor of research in the ANAL-ytic BehaviorISM department at UofWI, just a hop skip an jump across the Potomac. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats … and was abandoned with them. We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her.
Oh? NO PROBLEMO! Does Michelle have a good solid ‘NO!’ command?: professor SCRUFF SHAKE: "At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function. But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases then you will have achieved too things. First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased; and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher. How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted biting. When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild forms of punishment (I would hold my dog’s mouth closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above). "No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog" to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works." That’s HOWE COME his dog has OCD behaviors and is deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME, like your kats. This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food,
You mean, kinda like sibling rivalry. That’s caused by PUNISHING Michelle when she tries to molest the kats. Your efforts to intimidate and force control of her has made her fear and hate the kats cause they get her in trHOWEBLE. even when they’re just trying to walk across the room.
Yeah. That’s HOWE COME we "always TRY to use positive methods," sez professor SCRUFF SHAKE. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication.
That’s sheer idiocy. What medication is gonna make a scared dog friendly when you’re only gonna punish and intimidate IT when she looks at the kats anyHOWE??? I think this is absolutely wrong
The Puppy Wizard just sez "NO!" to drugs. (even though I worry about my cats!).
As well you should, if you don’t have the intellect to HOWEtwit the cunning of the domestic puppy dog even after The Puppy Wizard and ALL HIS FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual Students tell you HOWE they done it EZ GENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY and FOR FREE. I’ve fallen in love with the dog too
Good. Then you’ll do ANYTHING to SAVE IT from the needle. Won’t you… and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated.
Medication may only lower the dog’s inhibition and make her attack the kats MOORE vigorHOWEsly. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour.
The Puppy Wizard will provide the most highly recommended university behaviorIST’S work for your edification and benefit of your dogs and kats: Thanks!
You’re quite welcome. Dee
P.S. Let’s keep this amongst HOWErselves, The Puppy Wizard doesn’t want to get a reputation for givin BAD ADVICE. GOOD LUCK!: Differential Reinforcement – http://www.usu.edu/teachall/text/behavior/LRBIpdfs/Differential.pd f HOWEDY People, Here’s professor "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM ‘NO!’ into ITS face for five seconds and lock IT in a box for ten minutes reflection" dermer of the department of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM at UofWI’s DRO BULLSHIT, JERRYIZED. Level 1: Positive Interaction Procedures 1 LRBI Checklist Differential Reinforcement Definition Things to Do Select behaviors to be decreased or increased. Select alternative, incompatible, or communicative behaviors to be taught. Determine time interval. Set criterion. Ignore inappropriate behaviors. Monitor the student’s performance.
BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!! Differential Reinforcement Differential reinforcement is the reinforcement of one form of behavior and not another, or the reinforcement of a response under one condition but not another.
Instead of TRAINING or EXXXTINGUISHING the behaviors NEARLY INSTANTLY as taught in your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual, HOWER university trained EXXXPERTS dance arHOWEND the problem behaviors struggling to control themselves long engough for the subject to GET OLD AND DIE, before ever successfully rehabilitating IT. Differential reinforcement uses positive reinforcement
"Positive reinforcement" can be scientifically construed to mean HURT the subject… professor SCRUFF SHAKE dermer recommends: "At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function. But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases then you will have achieved too things. First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased; and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher. How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted biting. When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild forms of punishment (I would hold my dog’s mouth closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above). "No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog" to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works." to differentiate or separate appropriate student behavior from inappropriate behavior
ALL behavior problems are the same same same same. by increasing one while decreasing the other.
If a behavior cannot be changed or EXXXTINGUISHED NEARLY INSTANTLY is cause the EXXXPERT is doin sumpthin WRONG. Level 1: Positive Interaction Procedures 2 LRBI Checklist Differential Reinforcement
BWEEEAAAHAHAHAHHAAAA!!! There are six strategies that comprise or make up differential reinforcement: These behaviors should be objectively defined and must be observable and measurable. For DRO, DRI, DRA, and DRC, there will be a specific behavior to decrease, such as talk-outs, hitting, not following directions, out of seat, disrupting other students, or tantrums.
BWEEEEAHAHAHAHHAAA!!! For DRH, there will be a specific behavior to increase, such as contributing in class, positive social interactions, getting to class on time, or task completion. Select behaviors to be decreased or increased.
The behaviorists are waltzin us by HOWER willies again. DRL problem behaviors appropriate behaviors D R H Level 1: Positive Interaction Procedures 3 LRBI Checklist Differential Reinforcement For DRA, define an alternative behavior(s).
Giving alternate behaviors often increases the inapupriate behavior so the VICTIM can get the ALTERNATE behavior… as a REWARD. This is any behavior that can serve as an alternative to the inappropriate behavior.
IOW, we’re WASTING HOWER TIME and EFFORT on ineffective inapupraiate attempts to control behaviors by BRIBERY and AVOIDANCE. For example, working on an assignment is an alternative behavior (DRA) to wandering around the classroom.
BWWEHEHEHEHAAAAA!!! That AIN’T gonna work with a hyperactive HOWETA CONTROL student, like The Puppy Wizard. For DRI, select and define an incompatible behavior.
Like being sent to the principle’s office where The Puppy Wizard can get an occasional peek up the secretary’s dress and play with the copy machine. Select alternative, incompatible, or communicative behaviors to be taught.
Gettin sent into the hallway is a good alternate behavior for a student like The Puppy Wizard. Select alternative, incompatible, or communicative behaviors to be taught.
That AIN’T GONNA WORK if you got a STUBBORN CHILD or BAD DOG. The time interval for all differential reinforcement procedures specifies the time limits for a behavior to occur.
The VICTIM is gonna determine the TIME… "every thing has it’s season." The time interval can be from a few seconds to 1 or 2 hours. For example, when using DRO for talk -outs, the time interval might be 10 minutes for a reinforcer to be earned.
BWEEHAHAHAHAHAHAA!!! Better send the VICTIM to the principle’s office cause THAT ain’t gonna work… When using the DRH procedure to increase classroom contributions, the time interval might be 30 minutes or one class period.
BWEEEEAAHAHAHAHAHAA!!! It generally helps to set smaller time intervals when initially starting a differential reinforcement program.
Like WON second? Determine time interval.
You’re HOWETA time, professors. The criterion is the number of behaviors that must occur during the specified time interval to earn a reinforcer.
BWEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEEE!!! The Puppy Wizard sez SHOVE IT. Little Johnny was bein offered a cookie and milk at snack time. Teacher sez "Johnny, would you like a cookie?" Johnny sez "SHOVE IT." Teacher calls Johnny’s mother and sez: "Johnny was rude when asked if he’d like his cookies and milk today." Johnny’s mother sez "FUCK HIM. LET HIM STARVE." For DRO, the criterion is always 0 inappropriate behaviors. For DRL, the number is set lower than the behavior naturally occurs.
BWEHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!! The Puppy Wizard sez … read more »
Response:
I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about dog behaviour, never having had one before. I have a household of five cats, four of which suffer varying degrees of illness. A friend moved in with his six year old female sheltie last October. The dog grew up with cats …and was abandoned with them. We first noticed that Michelle (yes, she came with the name) would become agressive towards the cats when she had food and they came near her. This behaviour has escalated over the past few months to actually snapping and lunging at the cats even when she doesn’t have food, even when they’re just trying to walk across the room. The dog’s owner has made a vet appointment for her feeling that she needs medication. I think this is absolutely wrong (even though I worry about my cats!). I’ve fallen in love with the dog too and don’t want to see her needlessly medicated. I’d appreciate any suggestions that anyone can make regarding modifying her behaviour. Thanks! Dee